Our Producers
Fifteen Years on Flinders Lane
In the early days suppliers would walk through a dining room full of breakfast revellers, with their lemons, trays of fresh leaves and greens on full display. There’d be open trucks on Flinders Lane as they spruiked their delivery to our chefs; they were proud of their produce, and we were excited by the possibilities. Organised chaos, or chaotic organisation, we’re not sure, but there’s always a buzz. We can assure you, except for losing the chaos, nothing’s changed, great produce still thrills us.
When we released our cookbook in 2011, our suppliers received special mention in the forward. In what feels common place today, we know our dishes would be nothing without them, so we put them up front, just as they are on the menu: ‘the source’.
For almost 10 years Cumulus Inc. has been working with Ramarro Farm. Established by former Cumulus manager, Oliver Shorthouse and his wife Lisa, also a Cumulus alum, they grow extraordinary leaves and vegetables for us in the wet and volcanic soil of The Patch, deep in The Dandenongs. Initially working part time in both businesses, Oliver became a full time farmer about 5 years ago.
“Nothing gets made without produce, but nothing great gets made without great produce,” says Oliver, emphatically.
Oliver talks about radicchio and its varieties like loved ones, and as farm leaves, full and bright, wait for dressings and plates at the pass, haphazardly presented like Flemish still lifes, we can see why. Wonderful, variegated leaves in white and ruby provide brilliantly bitter counterpoints to cos’s crisp sweetness and witlof’s soft creamy texture. Delivered within a day of harvest, the leaves do all the work.
“The wonderful thing about Cumulus Inc. is from the moment we write a list of what we have harvested and send it to them, their ability to change and adapt and be creative with their menu, in their space, is what makes it work. It is delivered as direct as possible; our type of agriculture doesn't exist without it,” says Oliver.
“We don’t crop out, harvest everything and then try and sell it to market. We are bespoke and that’s the difference. We know what we’re picking today, and we deliver it the next morning. Why does it taste better out of the garden? It’s freshness! The flavour hasn’t deteriorated, the nutrient value or the colour hasn’t deteriorated. That’s the difference.”
Oliver’s excitement is ours too. And our relationships with producers and suppliers like Ramarro Farm are what makes Cumulus Inc. what it is, keeping us motivated and enthusiastic about the next great flavour combination or how a single, fresh ingredient can sometimes be enough.
Our special, fifteen-year menu will be available until the end of October.
Fifteen years on Flinders Lane
88 per person
-
Baker Bleu sourdough
Tuna tartare, goat's curd, green pea, mint
-
Fremantle octopus, pink fir potato, chilli, olive
Foie gras parfait, sweet & salty raisins, pistachio
Spiced cauliflower, chickpea, cashew cream, curry leaf
-
Slow roasted lamb shoulder, almond, red pepper
Cracked wheat salad, labneh, preserved lemon, barberry
Farm leaves, sherry vinaigrette
-
Whisky baba, crème diplomat
