Fifteen Years on Flinders Lane

A special menu to mark the occasion

Fifteen years have given us enough time to think about the things that have made a difference. Black Thonet chairs with timber socks, the marble bar and open kitchen is without a doubt a Cumulus Inc. signature and there are a few dishes that have become firm favourites. Dishes like the tuna tartare have a reputation that precedes themselves - it’s a dish that is persistent. It has never left.

“I think it’s been on since, maybe not day one, but the first 6 months. We’ve tried to take it away, guests just complain,” laughs JP Twomey, long-time chef at Cumulus Inc., “There’s been a few attempts to reinvent it once or twice, it didn’t work, it just stays on. It’s perfect, it works, it’s delicious.”

And with that, our set menu to mark the moment begins with tuna tartare. Officially the meal opens with Baker Bleu bread and Jersey milk cultured butter because “it’s perfectly made and when it’s that good, what choice do you have?” says JP of the particularly moreish sourdough.

These are the dishes that are dear to us, ones that left a mark and the ones still making an impression. We know a celebratory menu wouldn’t be complete without our 12-hour lamb shoulder or our madeleines, too. The lamb has had a few variations over the years. Originally served with onion and sumac, and lemon on the side, it now comes with an almond sauce and a purée of red peppers.

“We make a gremolata from some oil, parsley, garlic and lemon zest. And then a beautiful red pepper sauce on top. That’s red peppers cooked with some onions, garlic, lots of onions, and lots of garlic. We add tomato and a small amount of paprika, a touch of cayenne. It's cooked for three or four hours, ‘til nice and rich and thick, and that's the sauce on top of the lamb,” explains JP in a single Irish breath. “You can’t do fifteen years without it!”

There’s spiced cauliflower salad, Fremantle octopus with pink fir potatoes, and foie gras parfait is returning, served alongside soaked golden raisins and toasted brioche. It’s an original dish, a gentle reminder of the early days on Flinders Lane and of the chefs and staff who made it so. Baba is back, this time it wears a new dress. Generously soaked in sugar syrup, lightly warmed and placed over vanilla custard. Instead of rum, a ball of whiskey is served at its side; add as much or as little as you please. Same, same, but different.

We didn’t set out to do anything other than create a place to eat, relax and socialise. This is, and always has been a place for our customers and friends to make of it what they will. There is no need to be overly formal or commit to anything more than .

Our special, fifteen-year menu will be available until the end of October.

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